If you didn't need washers, you installed the mount perfectly. As for the cut of the rear, you bet it is not uncommon to cut the right side more than the other. For offset, I just do the angle of 1 1/16 inch at 20 inches to make the angle and it is remarkably close. The cowl actually has a bit of P factor lean on the forward flange. Before you cut, be sure to have the exhaust fitted and your propeller flange mounted as you may find it necessary to push the cowl forward a bit for more clearance and or to get that look just right. Also the exhaust often needs a bit of adjustment left or right/fore or aft to get the clearance just right. As for the cowl: As you cut, the cowl drops down into the rebate and changes everything during the fitting. To get it just right, I put two inch tape on the fuselage rebate line. Now I have a line that is exactly 2 inches longer than the cowl line. If I push the cowl to the spinner, I then scribe my cowl using the end of the tape by using a compass and pen. OK, I know the cowl is now 1/8 too long as is up against the spinner backplate. A spinner back plate to cowl clearance of 1/8 inch looks very nice. So all you have to do is cut another 1/8 inch off. Occasionally, there is a difference from the top to the bottom with the sides fine. Filler works. Then put a 2 oz. cloth over the filler so it won't crack and flick off. That is a heck of a surprise in flight. Some use a technique to leave the spinner a bit high at first as the engine settles believe it or not. I use 1/16 inch on initial fit if it has been a while, then re-level the engine again before final drill of the cowl. When the cowl is fitted on the floor for smooth sides, it will occasionally pucker on one or both sides between your clecos when installed on the plane (I start with 3/32 inch then go up in increments). Gravity works 24/7 and you will note that the sag in the cowl due to gravity will pull the nose down a bit and this causes puckers in the side. Once the cowl fits inside the rebate, I work the cowl sides to tart from the front and push the most forward pucker in and re-drill the cleco hole and go aft to the next pucker. It cuts down on filler.... Best regards. Bud Yerly ----- Original Message ----- From: graeme bird To: europa-list@matronics.com Sent: Sunday, March 06, 2011 3:39 PM Subject: Europa-List: cowl cutting - bak edge --> Europa-List message posted by: "graeme bird" > before I cut the back edge of the XS cowl for a 912S I'd like to check that its normal to take about 2mm off the port side and 12 mm off the starboard. I realise the engine is 1.5 off to starboard but I dont know if the cowl design caters for this already. My engine didnt need any adjustment washers and I measured the angle at 1.57 deg. Thanks -------- Graeme Bird G-UMPY Mono Classic/XS FWFD 912ULS/Warp drive FP Build nearing completion Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=332929#332929 http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List http://www.matronics.com/contribution