http://www.europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/album257/Mono+holder/OURDOLLY/
Y13-12-12

Making good ProgMess on the Mono Dolly.

Need two wheels:
http://www.harborfreight.com/8-inch-cushion-tire-swivel-caster-with-brake-46819.html

Need two gate latches:
http://www.harborfreight.com/spring-gate-latch-assembly-95018.html
You need to disassemble, requiring a good punch slightly smaller than the pin installed that holds things together

Need two jacks:
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-1-2-half-ton-scissor-jack-66907.html
You need to remove the jack point by grinding/sanding off, then remove paint for welding with a sander/grinder, then weld on pivot points, then sand/grind off any coating and weld on a drive shaft between the two units (I didn't look too close yet, but think may be able to use the second jack handle, if not just a mild steel rod will do)

Need 1 magnetic tool holder (for holding jack handles):
http://www.harborfreight.com/18-in-magnetic-tool-holder-60433.html
Not exactly sure how it will attach at the moment, but keeping the handle with the dolly is a good thing

Need 1 dolly for putting under tail-wheel:
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-wheel-movers-dolly-67208.html
I bought one of these for EZ moving backwards and sideways

I bought a roll of this to put on my fuse splash to try and keep paint in tact on the fuse:
http://www.harborfreight.com/solid-nonslip-drawer-liner-65565.html

McMaster 2' length 2" wide x 1/8" mild steel:
8910K399
Each castor will get four bars welded to it. You start with a 2" wide 2.5" long x 1/8" thick piece of steel, then you sculpt it to fit the caster in all four positions, straight ahead, backwards, stage left and stage right. You only need to have things close, then weld to castors. Now you screw the castor to a block of wood, and screw the gate latch to the same block of wood. You remove the shoot pin and use a 1/2" transfer punch to mark the four locations on each castor. Then drill the marks with .125" bit, then 1/2" bit, then 17/32" bit

McMaster two six foot lengths of 4130 chrome moly 2" x 1" rectangle x .065" thick:

6566K56
This needs to be cut into several pieces, mostly cut square, but 4 cuts 11.5 degrees, then weld together

McMaster 3 feet .563OD .120 wall ID .323:
89955K819
Needs to be cut to length for pivots, between about .500" and 2.00" and deburred

Hardware Store:
Handful of Grade 5 Hardware, mostly 5/16 course thread bolts and elastic stop nuts

Home Depot or Lowes:
3' of 1/2" square tube 1/16" thick
Needs 4 pieces to be cut to 1" in length for swing-arm offset
Look at the cross bar between the jacks, you can see the ground away area. I have another printed picture and believe this is to clear the swingarm:
http://www.europaowners.org/main.php?g2_itemId=394198
Thus I am just going to make a 1/2" herker/offset, will be EZ and look nice too

Y14-01-08]]> en-us Gallery 2 RSS Module, version 1.1.8 Tue, 07 Apr 2026 08:11:46 +0000 120 http://www.europaowners.org/gallery2/d/509660-4/OURDOLLY.jpg http://www.europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/album257/Mono+holder/OURDOLLY/ http://www.europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/album257/Mono+holder/OURDOLLY/DSC00950.JPG.html http://www.europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/album257/Mono+holder/OURDOLLY/DSC00950.JPG.html
The tail-wheel dolly kinda holds the hand crank parts in place in addition to the magnetic strip.

Then a 1/2" wing-nut holds the tail-wheel dolly in place.

Y14-02-17]]> rparigoris photo Mon, 17 Feb 2014 18:13:14 +0000 http://www.europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/album257/Mono+holder/OURDOLLY/DSC00949.JPG.html http://www.europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/album257/Mono+holder/OURDOLLY/DSC00949.JPG.html
I mounted a magnetic strip to the lower front to hold the 3 wheeled tail-wheel dolly and hand crank.

Note: I mutilated and melted a portion of the starboard hand crank to the port driven portion of the jack, then painted the weld joint and (any plating that got hurt) with the Eastwood silver brake paint.

Y14-02-17]]> rparigoris photo Mon, 17 Feb 2014 18:12:23 +0000 http://www.europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/album257/Mono+holder/OURDOLLY/DSC00948.JPG.html http://www.europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/album257/Mono+holder/OURDOLLY/DSC00948.JPG.html
Castor and hinge is melted in place pretty good.

I used star washers under the heads of all bolts that didn't have elastic stop nuts.

Y14-02-17]]> rparigoris photo Mon, 17 Feb 2014 18:10:57 +0000 http://www.europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/album257/Mono+holder/OURDOLLY/DSC00947.JPG.html http://www.europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/album257/Mono+holder/OURDOLLY/DSC00947.JPG.html
I welded a small tab on the front of the castor mount which greatly added to the strength of the mount.

Y14-02-17]]> rparigoris photo Mon, 17 Feb 2014 18:09:01 +0000 http://www.europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/album257/Mono+holder/OURDOLLY/DSC00946.JPG.html http://www.europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/album257/Mono+holder/OURDOLLY/DSC00946.JPG.html
Here's a shot of the aft pivot and castor mount.

Y14-02-17]]> rparigoris photo Mon, 17 Feb 2014 17:31:05 +0000 http://www.europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/album257/Mono+holder/OURDOLLY/DSC00945.JPG.html http://www.europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/album257/Mono+holder/OURDOLLY/DSC00945.JPG.html
I needed to remove some material from the top of the jack to allow pivots to fit.
I can't remember if I used a band-saw, hacksaw or both.
Then used a 3" round air sander and file to finish up.

If you look close you can see the Black Enamel line on the top, the damaged paint on the bottom is caused when the jack is collapsed.

Y14-02-17]]> rparigoris photo Mon, 17 Feb 2014 18:07:59 +0000 http://www.europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/album257/Mono+holder/OURDOLLY/DSC00944.JPG.html http://www.europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/album257/Mono+holder/OURDOLLY/DSC00944.JPG.html
Pivots use Grade 5 5/16" hardware.

The jacks are powder coated, so I just ground away before I welded hinges on. Painted the hinges and missing powder coat with black enamel.

Y14-02-17]]> rparigoris photo Mon, 17 Feb 2014 18:06:44 +0000 http://www.europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/album257/Mono+holder/OURDOLLY/DSC00943.JPG.html http://www.europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/album257/Mono+holder/OURDOLLY/DSC00943.JPG.html
White castors have a brake on them.

Y14-02-14]]> rparigoris photo Mon, 17 Feb 2014 17:18:10 +0000 http://www.europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/album257/Mono+holder/OURDOLLY/DSC00942.JPG.html http://www.europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/album257/Mono+holder/OURDOLLY/DSC00942.JPG.html
Red goes on Port side of aeroplane and Green on Starboard.

Dolly is upside down here.

I figure the rear facing castor position may make sense pushing the fuse perhaps backwards or forwards with the main off the ground? Will report what positions are desirable for what once I try the different positions out.

Y14-02-17]]> rparigoris photo Mon, 17 Feb 2014 18:04:56 +0000 http://www.europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/album257/Mono+holder/OURDOLLY/DSC00941.JPG.html http://www.europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/album257/Mono+holder/OURDOLLY/DSC00941.JPG.html
I didn't know why I would want to pigeon toe in, but decided I best allow for it.

Serendipity!

It ends up that trying to move the dolly around full with is just a little too wide for my house, and I'm sure for some areas of my hangar. By pigeon toeing in, you can roll the dolly sideways and toe in makes unit shorter than toe out!

Y14-02-17]]> rparigoris photo Mon, 17 Feb 2014 17:40:00 +0000