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IMG_3213
As an aside, while trouble shooting this problem, I decided to try and get the differential pressure gage working. Spent quite a bit of time on this over a year ago but could never get it to work. Anyway, I reinstalled the differential sensor unit and p
Date: 05/17/2012
Views: 5470
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IMG_3238
Moved over to the port side and did the same with this carb.
Date: 05/21/2012
Views: 5831
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IMG_2604
Got out the inspection mirror and made sure the gasket was in place all the way round the bowl. It was.
Date: 05/30/2012
Views: 6952
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IMG_3277
Here's a better picture of the nitrile gasket in place on the port carb gasket groove.
Date: 05/30/2012
Views: 5244
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IMG_3278
And the float bowl back in place, with no gasket sticking out anywhere. Then it was torqued down and safety wired. Both drip trays were then re-installed. Lastly, I ran the electric fuel pump for several minutes (at 6 PSI according to the gage) and che
Date: 05/30/2012
Views: 5885
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IMG_3220
Similar staining and residual fuel on the port side as well.
Date: 05/18/2012
Views: 5348
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IMG_2598
The culprit seems to be the compressed paper gasket material which dries out if it sits for a while and then leaks. Cork gaskets were recommended as a replacement. Unfortunately, cork gaskets were not available. So I did a Google search and came up wi
Date: 05/30/2012
Views: 4918
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IMG_2599
Here the nitrile gasket is lying on top of the paper gasket, They are dimensionally identical. The nitrile gasket is quite soft and flexible. The paper gasket is stiff and hard.
Date: 05/30/2012
Views: 5304
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IMG_2601
I took the float bowl off the starboard carb and removed the old gasket. The instructions with the new nitrile gasket said to apply some grease to hold the gasket in place while the bowl was replaced. I didn't have any grease but I had some light oil wh
Date: 05/30/2012
Views: 4354
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IMG_2603
I replaced the float bowl, torqued the "nut" to 48.7 ft-lbs and safety wired it as per Rotax specs.
Date: 05/30/2012
Views: 4850
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IMG_3218
Once the brakes seemed to be OK it was time to run the engine and check it out. That didn't go well. Started well, warmed up with a bit of choke at the beginning. Smoothed out nicely and idled properly after it was all warmed up. Then I added throttle
Date: 05/18/2012
Views: 6292
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IMG_2755
New brake master cylinder set, installed and viewed from the tunnel. Brakes have been bled and seem to work well. Taxi testing will tell just how well they work.
Date: 04/24/2012
Views: 5446
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IMG_2744
New brake master cylinders installed. No handles on the levers yet. Some measurement to do first.
Date: 04/19/2012
Views: 5036
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New MC-4A 10
The aft holes have been drilled and the MC-4A's are bolted in place to check the fit.
Date: 04/15/2012
Views: 3796
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New MC-4A 11
Because the sides are narrower and closer to the ends of the MC-4A's the old outer spacers no longer fit and it would be impossible to further shorten them, they have been replaced with a couple washers.
Date: 04/15/2012
Views: 6772
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New MC-4A 12
The whole assembly should now fit, length and width, within the existing space. So the unit may be dropped down as needed to allow for it being taller. Due to outside commitments, it looks like it will be Wednesday (18th) before I can get to the hanger
Date: 04/15/2012
Views: 4683
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New MC-4A 04
The MC-4A's must fit within this length and that 3/4" should allow the fit.
Date: 04/15/2012
Views: 4274
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New MC-4A 05
With the attach fitting fully screwed on to the end of the thread, the last bit of thread is just visible in the fitting.
Date: 04/12/2012
Views: 3626
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New MC-4A 06
Now the aft ends of the MC-4A's will be within the limits while the brake levers are properly positioned for operation and fit.
Date: 04/12/2012
Views: 3746
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New MC-4A 07
Now we need mounting brackets. 1 1/4x1 1/4x1/8 aluminum angle has been cut to length (5 1/4 in) and is positioned on the brake mount for drilling the mounting holes using a wood block and clamp.
Date: 04/14/2012
Views: 4128
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