Top wing skin bond on information and "ProgMess".

Foam rope plugs

rparigoris — Mon, 11 Oct 2010 02:19:22 +0000

These foam plugs were from a length of foam rope cut flush with surface to seal off the flap and aileron hinge holes when filling. Worked very well. It allowed us to fill without working around the holes or an obstruction sticking out of the holes. Only minor clean up was needed to return holes to round.
Y10-10-10

FL22 and W25

rparigoris — Fri, 08 Oct 2010 18:20:54 +0000

My front lift pins W25s seem to look OK.
Overall length 2.235"
Parallel sides of pin protrusion (no threads or round tip) of .975".

My flap drive pins FL22 appear they perhaps should be the same dimension as the W25s?
The overall lenght is close to the W25s, but the parallel sides of pin protrusion (no threads or round tip) are different to each other, and different from the W25s?
One pin has parallel sides of pin protrusion of .890"
The other pin has parallel sides of pin protrusion of 1.045"
Y10-10-06

Subject: Re: FL22 do I need new pins?
From: "Bud Yerly"
Date: Wed, October 6, 2010 7:06 pm
To: rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us
Cc: "Karen Ward"
Priority: Normal
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Wow,
I had to look. You have one of the bad FL 22 pins indicated in the Service Bulletin.
OK in the grand scheme of things we need at least .3 inches of thread to go through
the aluminum and glass and 0.5 is sufficient. That's OK, but I think the FL 22 you
have is a bad one indicated in SB 16 and here is why. Granted, you can put the one
that has only .89 inches of smooth shaft in, back it out for the one inch from the
closeout to the cylinder portion end thinking it allows for one inch needed for flap
travel. But that will be a problem later on with grease and dirt filling the thread
protruding and it will cause hang ups later.

The FL 22 I have gives .8 inches of thread, a full inch of cylinder, and 1.25 inches
of shaft including the dome head. That is a sane and rational dimension for the
FL22 and will give more than an inch of play in the bearing, and proper flap
operation the manual calls for.

I'll send you a set.

Bud
----- Original Message -----
From: rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us
To: Bud Yearly
Sent: Wednesday, October 06, 2010 11:34 AM
Subject: FL22 do I need new pins?

Hi Bud

I laid out the hardware last night for wing and flap rigging.

I think I may need replacement pins for FL22 flap drive pins?
Whats your opinion?

SB16 wants you to have at least 10mm of flap drive pin extension when flaps are
fully deployed. It also mentions that the pins have 1" of parallel sides of pin
protrusion.

It appears that my W25s and FL22s perhaps should be the same dimensions.
Both of my W25s have .975" of parallel sides of pin protrusion (.025" shy of 1").
Also where the thread meets the parallel side, there is a nice radius thus there
will not be too much of a stress riser at this intersection.

My FL22s have different length of parallel sides of pin protrusion to each other
and compared to the W25s.
One is .890"
The other is 1.045"

Also the FL22s have an attempt at a machined radius at the start of the threads,
but there are some sharp edges.

Questions:
Are my FL22s Ok to use or do I need replacements?

Here is a picture:
http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=84261
Click Full size: 2592 x 1944 for higher resolution.

Do my W25s seem OK?

Thx.
Ron Parigoris
44 Carriage Drive
Kings Park, NY 11754

Pitot /static mount 2.

rparigoris — Tue, 05 Oct 2010 08:29:34 +0000

Broken edge of starboard aileron 8.

rparigoris — Tue, 05 Oct 2010 08:26:11 +0000

Starboard aileron repair. View of top side.

Broken edge of starboard aileron 7.

rparigoris — Tue, 05 Oct 2010 08:25:32 +0000

Starboard aileron repair. View of bottom side.

Second pass on the top of Port wing.

rparigoris — Mon, 04 Oct 2010 21:06:27 +0000

After a burn out work session Saturday>Sunday that left Alan and myself "burnt out" on Sunday, we managed to get the bottom of this port wing / flap / aileron sanded and applied probably close to the last pass of 3M Flowable Finishing putty.
Once the 3M began to set we took wing outside tent and sanded the tops first pass, (75% Q-Cel then when it tacked, completed fill with Expancel).
Once sanded, vacuumed and blown off, we brought the port wing back into the tent and filled it with Aeropoxy Light.
I had to open a new quart of Aeropoxy Light that has been stored upside down and mix it, (contents separate), in the can which is a hard job to do without making too much of a mess with a full can. When stored upside down the fluid is now at the top of the can when you open it, so in one respect you can easily see when it is mixed, but until you can get the air that is now stuck at the bottom of the can out, the can is 100% full!
The area near wingtip needed a swipe from the lead edge to the trail edge with our very wide spackle knife, (12" or wider), that has an added wood support, (to keep it stiff).
We also completed filling the wingtip itself.
I think this may be the final pass of lightweight fill, once sanded onto the 3M Flowable Finishing Putty.
Sculpting the spar seam to achieve a reasonable curved shape is not a trivial job. Very easy to end up with two flats and an angle between them.
Y10-10-04

Port wing UNI layup.

rparigoris — Mon, 04 Oct 2010 09:48:24 +0000

4 plies of UNI trimmed on port wing.
Y10-10-04

Starboard wing trail edge factory void 2.

rparigoris — Mon, 11 Oct 2010 05:50:04 +0000

Alan injected Redux with a little Flox.
As I mentioned in the past, injecting Redux or Aeropoxy to a void that is not scuffed adds little strength. Might as well have waxed the surface. The syringe has already been cleaned and is only there for picture.
Y10-10-04

Starboard wing trail edge factory void 1.

rparigoris — Mon, 04 Oct 2010 21:02:58 +0000

The starboard wing trail edge had a factory void near the outer mass balance box that I noticed when just about getting ready to fit the repaired aileron.
We Filled with Redux/Flox after scuffing with a X-Acto keyhole saw blade and a jeweler's saw blade to scuff sand the invisible void as best as possible.
Y10-10-04

Pitot /static mount 4.

rparigoris — Tue, 05 Oct 2010 08:29:01 +0000

Extra washers are temporary just to prevent stripping out nylon lock.