http://www.europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/Landing+gear/FLAPDRIVE/MAKEITWORK/ en-us Gallery 2 RSS Module, version 1.1.8 Sun, 10 May 2026 15:39:40 +0000 120 http://www.europaowners.org/gallery2/d/408451-3/MAKEITWORK.jpg http://www.europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/Landing+gear/FLAPDRIVE/MAKEITWORK/ http://www.europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/Landing+gear/FLAPDRIVE/MAKEITWORK/DSC00827.JPG.html http://www.europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/Landing+gear/FLAPDRIVE/MAKEITWORK/DSC00827.JPG.html
A little paint needed > then flight ready.

See Album:
"PUSH-PULL CABLE DETAIL: FRONT CABLE ATTACHMENT"
for gory details.

I met up with Wayne tonight:
** We used our jig and drilled all three holes for the rear bracket mount (we marked aft hole with pencil on a hemostat, then used small rare earth magnets to transfer location to the outside of the pitch tube tunnel), fit was perfect to our bracket!
** We verified things are as they should be, then drilled the aft hole of the front bracket right through our aluminium temporary bracket and tunnel
** We then disassembled everything, removed the temporary front aluminium mounting bracket and reassembled everything for the first time with the front mounting bracket mounted to the tunnel. We then optimized the front hole location after cycling the flap push-pull cable several times, then removed the push-pull cable and drilled the front hole.

Final preparations will be made on the entire flap push-pull cable assembly, then will do our final install and sign off as "flight ready":
## Paint Master Cylinder with DOT 3 brake fluid resistant paint
## Install 3/16" thick front bracket hard-point (6061) tapering down to 1/8", then 2 BID, aluminium plate, then 2 BID and peel ply
## Paint all that needs painting
## Redux all that needs Reduxing in place
## Fabricate new FL21 out of 7075 .250" thick 7075 plate (trying to replicate the correct moment arm length we have now using the factory FL21 with a hole drilled lower, only allowing the clevis fork to move more forward towards LG08), will need to verify with wings rigged we have proper flap throw once our flap up-stops are installed
## Install flap up-stops (perforated SS area with TIG welded distorted thread nut and SS Allen screw with thick washer welded to the bottom)

Y13-12-23]]> rparigoris photo Tue, 24 Dec 2013 05:23:17 +0000 http://www.europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/Landing+gear/FLAPDRIVE/MAKEITWORK/DSC00820.JPG.html http://www.europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/Landing+gear/FLAPDRIVE/MAKEITWORK/DSC00820.JPG.html
I milled a round slot in master cylinder to clear the flap push-pull cable.

Keeping the flap cable ~ parallel with the master cylinder keeps it from contacting the main gear tire (when retracted).

Y13-12-23]]> rparigoris photo Wed, 25 Dec 2013 17:36:50 +0000 http://www.europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/Landing+gear/FLAPDRIVE/MAKEITWORK/IMG_0236.JPG.html http://www.europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/Landing+gear/FLAPDRIVE/MAKEITWORK/IMG_0236.JPG.html
I purchased several sizes of glass reinforced plastic self aligning bearings from McMaster before I found glass reinforced plastic self leveling pillow blocks on line (Igus).
It ended up that I got to opening the McMaster and Igus packages on the same day.
Turns out McMaster bearings are made by Igus.
McMaster doesn't sell Igus self aligning pillow blocks.
Anyway I tried to remove the ball from the next size down (from 20mm we are using for the push-pull cable) McMaster bearing. It cracked on the way out (I turned the race 90 degrees to the ball and was also squeezing to elongate so it could be disassembled).
I figured if I could do it without heating, I may try and remove from the pillow block with heat.
The idea was I was going to bore the ball larger to fit the 11/16" threads of out Series 6 cable.
No way, it broke on the way out.
Unless the material gets brittle over time, boy is that ball stuck in there and it takes a lot of force to get it out.

Y13-12-15]]> rparigoris photo Mon, 16 Dec 2013 10:54:40 +0000 http://www.europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/Landing+gear/FLAPDRIVE/MAKEITWORK/DSC00774_001.JPG.html http://www.europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/Landing+gear/FLAPDRIVE/MAKEITWORK/DSC00774_001.JPG.html ]]> rparigoris photo Mon, 16 Dec 2013 03:23:22 +0000 http://www.europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/Landing+gear/FLAPDRIVE/MAKEITWORK/DSC00815.JPG.html http://www.europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/Landing+gear/FLAPDRIVE/MAKEITWORK/DSC00815.JPG.html
EZ to install, yet provides 360 degrees of contact area.
Better alternative

Y13-12-15]]> rparigoris photo Mon, 16 Dec 2013 02:48:14 +0000 http://www.europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/Landing+gear/FLAPDRIVE/MAKEITWORK/DSC00814.JPG.html http://www.europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/Landing+gear/FLAPDRIVE/MAKEITWORK/DSC00814.JPG.html
Pretty "slick" cable clamps I purchased from McMaster.
They are very light and allow the Series 6 cable to slide without binding yet is going to be able to maintain the desired height I want for the cable at that point!
Better alternative to the idea we came up with in the below album:
PUSH-PULL CABLE DETAIL: CABLE CLAMPS THAT ALLOW FORE-AFT MOVEMENT

Y13-12-15]]> rparigoris photo Mon, 16 Dec 2013 02:49:38 +0000 http://www.europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/Landing+gear/FLAPDRIVE/MAKEITWORK/DSC00813.JPG.html http://www.europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/Landing+gear/FLAPDRIVE/MAKEITWORK/DSC00813.JPG.html
WEIGHT:

Weight of cable with rear bracket assembly complete and front mounting hardware (two nuts and star washer)(1lb 15 oz), I added the weight of the front mounting bracket (2.5oz since it was mounted to the temporary master cylinder bracket):

Total Weight 2 lbs 1.5 oz (not including items below)

Items missing on above Total Weight::
** I didn't include the clevis fork and Heims fittings, because they are the same items I took off of the factory push-rod. I will weigh the factory push-rod for comparison.
** I didn't include the two 5/16-24 jam nuts. Same thing, they are from the factory push-rod.
** Two 1/4-28 flat head screws and lock nuts for the front mounting bracket.
** Three 3/16" screws for mounting the aft bracket.
** Aft tunnel reinforcement (4 BID and 1/8" plywood 3" wide and 4.5" long).
** Front tunnel reinforcement (4 BID and probably 1/8" 6061 ~ 3" wide and 4.5" long)

Length:
I ordered a Series 6 cable 57+13/16" in length (57.813" long). I highly recommend you put longer air-brake cable in situation with rear mount installed and length replicating the 4" specifications and measure your bird. It may be slightly different from mine. Cost was $96 plus UPS Ground to Long Island NY a TTL. of $108.00

UPDATE ON CABLE LENGTH Y13-12-15:
After diddling with things for a few weeks, the length 57.813" is a bit too short.
I needed to install a coupler and threaded rod on the front to lengthen allowing for 9.5 threads of engagement of the 5/16-24 threaded ends.
The length I would order is 58.475" (tip of threaded rod to tip of threaded rod) of Series 6 cable with 4" of travel. The aft side would need to be cut down to .700" (by you, don't forget to make chamfer at a 45 degree angle so the first thread is not super flimsy).

Y13-12-15]]> rparigoris photo Mon, 16 Dec 2013 01:42:44 +0000 http://www.europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/Landing+gear/FLAPDRIVE/MAKEITWORK/DSC00812.JPG.html http://www.europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/Landing+gear/FLAPDRIVE/MAKEITWORK/DSC00812.JPG.html
Pretty much the front bracket is flight ready.
The two nuts got weight reduction, they need paint and the aft one will be Reduxed in place.
The star washer is bored.
You slide in the Series 6 cable with the aft bracket attached going forward through the pitch tube tunnel and thread it through this front mounting bracket.
With the large nut and star washer dangling and the threaded portion only a few inches through the bracket, you install the clevis fork jam nut and clevis fork (EZ to work on it at this location) then push things forward and install the star washer and front mounting nut, then hook up the clevis fork.
The coupler and threaded rod will be Reduxed to the cable after the coupler gets paint.
The master cylinder needs to get "up close and personal" with a two flute 1/2" ball end mill (on order from McMaster) to make a cable pocket in it.
May do some weight reduction on the Master Cylinder as well?

Y13-12-15]]> rparigoris photo Mon, 16 Dec 2013 11:11:42 +0000 http://www.europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/Landing+gear/FLAPDRIVE/MAKEITWORK/DSC00811.JPG.html http://www.europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/Landing+gear/FLAPDRIVE/MAKEITWORK/DSC00811.JPG.html
Flight Ready except for a paint and Redux.
I think there is a good chance my 7075 parts will hold the white ball of the pillow block captive enough in the event of a failure to still allow the main gear to be fully locked in both the down and retracted positions.
My WAG is that one side of the black would be the failure point allowing the white ball to pop out. If that was the case the 7075 part on the opposite side of the failure would hold things in place.
That said, you may not be able to get the outriggers down and locked. We have LED indication for the main and outriggers.

Y13-12-15]]> rparigoris photo Mon, 16 Dec 2013 11:02:30 +0000 http://www.europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/Landing+gear/FLAPDRIVE/MAKEITWORK/DSC00810.JPG.html http://www.europaowners.org/gallery2/v/Begin-06-2003/Landing+gear/FLAPDRIVE/MAKEITWORK/DSC00810.JPG.html
Considering all things, 7oz. not bad.
Only missing three 3/16" bracket mounting screws and a little Redux.

Y13-12-15]]> rparigoris photo Mon, 16 Dec 2013 02:39:14 +0000