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Got out the inspection mirror and made sure the gasket was in place all the way round the bowl. It was.

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Moved over to the port side and did the same with this carb.

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Here's a better picture of the nitrile gasket in place on the port carb gasket groove.

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And the float bowl back in place, with no gasket sticking out anywhere. Then it was torqued down and safety wired. Both drip trays were then re-installed. Lastly, I ran the electric fuel pump for several minutes (at 6 PSI according to the gage) and che

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As an aside, while trouble shooting this problem, I decided to try and get the differential pressure gage working. Spent quite a bit of time on this over a year ago but could never get it to work. Anyway, I reinstalled the differential sensor unit and p

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Then I removed all the cheep crap connectors (with folded sheet metal pins) provided with the gage package, re-ran all the wiring and replaced the cheep connectors with good, 9-pin, sub-D connectors.

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Mounted the gage and turned on the electric fuel pump. Bingo! A pressure reading. It works now. So now I have a good operating differential pressure gage.

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After the engine run still surged, I investigated the seating of the float bowls & gaskets. This one shows how the new gasket wasn't properly located, see arrow.

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Here you can see where the gasket was cut by the bowl where it wasn't properly located.

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The issue being the softness and flexibility of the gasket material. Makes it difficult to ensure proper location while reattaching the bowl. The gasket is probably fine for a carb rebuild where you are doing it on the bench and can turn the carb over f